1/30/16    Saturday   Marco Island, FL


After a short stop in an expensive marina to top off our diesel fuel we left Ft. Myers Beach in our wake...retraced our pathway under the bridge and around the north end of Estero Island and into the open "ocean" of the Gulf of Mexico.

We were thinking to make directly for Key West since we had a two day weather window. That would mean simply dropping anchor somewhere in the Gulf of Mexico to spend the night. Now that would be a new adventure...and I'd girded my loins, gathered my nerve and/or submitted to ignorance of terror and was ready to float around an anchor out in the middle of Gulf of Mexico "nowhere".

Then we learned that weather was good for 3 days. So.....we (that would be David with me skidding along) could reconsider....everything. David also noticed that the route directly to Key West would put us anchoring in 40' of water. Nah, that just wouldn't work. Not enough anchor road. So, okay. Let's reconsider everything.

David's tendency (not a bad thing when on the ocean) is to gather and gather and gather information regarding options and options and options. My preference is to have 3 pieces of information and maybe 3 options and then DECIDE and stick to the decision. I grow impatient with the numerous considerations/options. Did I mention that I get snarky and short tempered? Really, I just get pissed off. No denying it. In the end, I appreciate the results and the carefulness. It is just the process that drives me up that veritable wall. So I huffed and David explained (roll my eyes, I was just mad!) why he was doing what he was doing.

With my blessings, and admitting it was a good idea, we motored into an anchorage on the backside of Marco Is around 3:00, an early day which allowed us to cook in the daylight, me to call a friend and have a long conversation, David to move an anchor to the aft deck, Amelia to have a walk on the foredeck. All good!!

We will have two long days of travel tomorrow and Monday and arrive, not in Key West (another decision after many options and much discussion and a good idea), but at Boot Key/Marathon to get ourselves on the waiting list for a mooring there. Then, perhaps, we'll motor/sail to Key West for a couple days. Or wait for Dick and Nora and travel there by car. Options.

Meanwhile, David and I enjoyed candle light dinner w/wine in the pilot house while watching night lights come on in the condos.

Sunset, backside of Marco Island, FL

1/29/16    Friday  Ft. Myers Beach


The promise of sunrise this morning was the possibility of sun rather than rain. Score!

Sunrise after two solid days of rain

We left the mooring early to get to the boat yard for rudder inspection, diagnosis, repair. I'll let David tell you the story. It has a happy ending.

David -
Late last week, while on a mooring and getting knocked about by a wind storm, Nancy and I heard a sound we had not heard before. A metal sounding clunk-clunk.  We finally found it was the rudder post coming up through the boat into the Lazarette.  Further examination raised some questions about if a bushing had worn out or dropped down the shaft.  Plus the stuffing box that keeps water out of the boat was leaking again in spite of my having tightened it several times before. We decided to have it looked at.
After shopping around we finally settled on a yard and waited til today to get in line for a mechanic and potentially a haul out ($9 a foot of boat [33'] plus $100 for blocking before a mechanic even climbs into the boat at $100/hr) ahem!  

So I went over yesterday with cellphone photos to meet Mike, the mechanic and plan for today. As I walked in the yard I spied a sign "NO DO IT YOURSELF" Oh-oh!

Mike and I met with office manager. He agreed if we brought the boat in early he could look at it in the water and we would decide if a haul out was necessary. Sooo, 7:30 this morning we arrived and i walked into the office and surprised the office manager. "Hi, please let Mike know we are ready for him whenever he is free." Bingo he was on the boat with coffee a few minutes later. In spite of the sign, he was delighted that I wanted to take all the gear off so he could look at the rudder shaft itself. So, I got to take apart the hydraulics, autopilot and other and fittings so he could get a better look at it all. Bingo #2. I worked (with Nancy) to pull apart the gear attached above the shaft and then went and got Mike. He came back and pulled and prodded and found our problems.  a fitting on top of the rudder shaft with a bronze square key (keeps the fitting from slipping) was sloppy, worn and loose. (clunk clunk.) Plus the stuffing in the stuffing box was installed incorrectly (just like the stuffing on the shaft we discovered lat month). so, drip -drip.
I repacked the stuffing box, Mike showed up with a new key for the keyway we installed it, he looked it over and said "Your good to go." Bingo #3.  He was gone and I was putting everything back together. Whew. It is better than ever! I walked into the office, and got a bill for $115, rather than one for a thousand or more.  Now, we will just check the bolts and fittings frequently for a while to make certain noting works looks and continue on our happy way! Dinner ashore anyone???


Nancy again:

Post happy ending rudder story, which was a lot of waiting around and handing tools for me, we went back to "our" mooring only to discover that someone had taken it. Turns out it was Mary Beth and Joe (we met them at the laundry room later in the day). As we passed by I shouted that "Hey, we paid your mooring fee." We headed to another mooring up river with the Harbor Master following us with the pump out boat. Phew, pumped poop (like that alliteration?) and glad of it.

I felt sort of at sixes and sevens with David today. I think he was distracted by the possible BIG bill if we'd had to haul out the boat for the rudder repair. And I often feel I'm "on alert" and waiting  with David...some things I simply can't do on/around/relative to Grace. We both, I think, try to not make decisions that could negatively effect the other's plans, even if we don't have or think we have plans.
Anyway, from me - impatience; from him - distracted.

But we managed to get the laundry washed. We met and enjoyed Mary Beth and Joe and may travel w/or see them in Key West. We had a great dinner - out - since we "saved" (!) so much money NOT being hauled out. And are making ready to set sail, so to speak, tomorrow.....continuing our journey of adventures.

1/28/16   Thursday   Ft. Myers Beach, FL


Another day for walking on the Beach....in the RAIN. It did it again today...rained all day long, sometimes heavy, sometimes light mist...great for the skin. David and I left the boat around 8:30 this morning to try the recommended Heavenly Biscuit cafe for breakfast. Biscuits were terrific. My breakfast sandwich was delicious (w/tomato). David's biscuit and gravy, mediocre and should have been returned. But the adventure was fine. Then we decided to go to the beach before hitting the grocery store for the produce sale.

We were definitely overdressed for the beach in our foul weather pants and jackets. When we left the boat the weather was definitely foul but we could have been in shorts and rain jacket on the beach. Beaches are for getting wet, after all. Last night's storm and this morning's low tide had left lots of seaweed and whelks on the the shore. And starfish body parts were strewn everywhere. And some tiny spiral shells. Did sun salutes facing west toward TX. I'm sure the sun didn't mind since it was invisible anyway. Felt good to stretch and bend and breath. The ocean was a muted, soft green; horizon a light to dark grey; sand a grey/brown/cream. Interesting color palette this morning.

Meanwhile, back at the food store there was a sale on produce. Happens the last Thursday of the month. Curious. Why then? But we participated and got some regulars plus oranges and mangoes. Back at the boat, through light rain, I completed the sewing on the arm of the pilot house seat while David dinghy-ed to a marina to pick up a zinc and prepare for tomorrow's haul out. "If its not one thing, its 'your rudder!'" is our mantra today and tomorrow. David had a great interaction with the mechanic who will likely work on our boat. We'll show up EARLY tomorrow morning so he can check it out IN the water (out IN - odd arrangement of opposite words) ...hoping the repair can be done without the haul out. Of course, we, first, need to learn what needs repairing.

We installed the other string of LED lights in the saloon tonight. Wow! a modern "kitchen" with under-cabinet indirect lighting. Really lovely. If you'd not seen the "before" you'd not appreciate the "after" but the difference is great.

Lots of people out in their boats today...on deck, in the cockpit, in the dinghy. All a bit stir-crazy I expect. Most everything on our boat is damp. Those towels I'd left out on the clothesline to dry yesterday are now draped over the chair and steering in the pilot house, not quite dripping. My feet are dry and in socks tonight.

1/26-27/16     Tuesday/Wednesday    Ft. Myers Beach, FL


Contrasts:

Tuesday, CC (Colorful Crowd) on the beach 

Wednesday, Steady, soaking rain even inside the boat

Well, not really soaking inside the boat but steady all day rain. A great project, reading, napping day. But wait. Let's get the sequence correct.

Tuesday -

Beach day AGAIN. More walking. Some sitting. Some lying on the beach! Then, DQ chocolate-dipped ice cream cones. More walking....to the food store which was too far to walk after all the beach walking on Monday and Tuesday. I did a bunch of standing around (seems to my tired back and impatient self) waiting for David to do his google research. Admittedly, I was usually the one asking the questions - "How far is it to the food store?" "Is there a hardware store on island?" But, mostly, these are rhetorical questions and I'm just making conversation. He takes them seriously and looks stuff up on his phone. Arms akimbo. Roll my eyes and get snarky. Sigh.

The boat yard we chose after talking to the yard manager/mechanic yesterday became a bad choice today after David talked to the yard owner, Dominic. He was abrasive, more than assertive in what he would do, what he suggested, what we should do. His name fits his dominate personality and the reviews we'd read and heard - we will do it MY way attitude rather than let's work this out together attitude that his yard manager expressed. So, aw, shit. The fact that we couldn't live aboard if an overnight was required cinched the no deal for us. Hey, if we can't live on the boat where to live during repairs. So, back to another option and slower results. But, check that 2nd photo. Its raining so we're not going anywhere anyway. Meanwhile, both David and I were a little short on patience.

But we've made alternate arrangements with a preferred yard and will be hauled on Friday...after the rain. We'll be diagnosed - the boat will be - and maybe repaired on Friday but perhaps not until Monday. WhooHooo living in a boat yard again. Wonder if we'll be locked in over the weekend. Something to check out, for sure.

But the beach is a beach...a saying, I think, "life is a beach." And it is very mild, temperature-wise here. We discovered that there is a dock behind the food store and we can take our dinghy there. By water the distance is much diminished. Instead of taking the dinghy to the town landing then walking a mile or so we can take the dinghy maybe 1/4 mile and walk 50 yards. Better. We found this mystery waiting for the Trolley to bring us back from the food store.

What kind of palm and are these "fruits/seeds" edible? Seems red is ripe.

The Trolley let us off in Time Square where there is a tall clock in the middle of a promenade and  I wanted a Greek salad from one of the outdoor restaurants I'd noticed...across from the DQ place. We decided that would be lunch/dinner (4 PM). Perfect with stuffed grape leaves added. Chatted with the couple at the next table; he retired Superintendent (Commissioner) of Education in Michigan, she retired from Real Estate. It was pretty clear that she was not expecting to be asked what she had retired from to make there life in Ft. Myers Beach possible, but she rose to the question. I'm a bit tired of all the career/work questions going to the men. So, let's interrupt that little piece of oppression of men and women.  Lovely chat. They live part time in Michigan, part time (read winter! duh.) here.
Showers, together (!) for David and self and back in the dinghy and back to Grace, tired, well fed and well exercised. I finished my book. David started another "Hornblower" one.

Wednesday....RAIN, started last night and had wind attached to it, not bad wind but it did bring about a new clunk, clunk noise. I got up to investigate and found it was the fish weights in the mosquito screen that we'd left on the door. Don't need that in the pouring rain. So, out I went to roll it up. Might as well get the now soaked towels we'd hung out to dry, post showers, our showers. I was awake much of the night. No worries but dreams and just awake. Finally just got up and read in the newest Sun Magazine.

When I finally got up the rain was light and intermittent so I drained the dinghy of last night's rain. It so needs it again now with rain all day so far. I really needed to focus on own projects today, not wanting to pay attention to David at all. I suggested he might want to go ashore but he claimed projects of his own. Okay, but don't talk to me. I want quiet. Well, I'm okay with running the engine to charge the batteries. Sort of, but definitely appreciate that noisy need. But no talking. No expecting a response unless a direct question is asked. Okay.

I covered the other pilot house arm rest. Still some hand sewing to do but put those covering towels away! I'll also make those "chair arm sleeves", the covers that go on the arms of sofas at my grandmothers' houses to keep the place you put your hands from wearing and getting greasy,  for each of the arms. We handle them going up and down the stairs into the aft cabin.

Yellow triangle still to be covered

I'd hoped to do some research and writing of grants for FCP but that might be tomorrow's rainy day project. Or maybe I'll color.

David put a thumb hook/latch in one of the floorboards in the fo'c's'le to make access easier. All good.

New flush ring pull in the fo'c's'le next to kitty litter. Amelia will be pleased

Running the engine again to support computer work and various other communication techniques. Made tuna casserole for lunch so that might be dinner, too, since rain will, likely, prevent our cookout. A productive, indoor day with some delicious laziness included.

Last photo of the day, maybe. When our friend, Sheldon, was here he gifted us with some LED strip lights he'd purchased for his boat and then sold the boat before getting all installed. What a lighting difference. Nearly need sunglasses in our pilot house at night. I love it. Shows up tired eyes and wrinkles, though.                    

Surgical theater surround lighting.

Oh. another      

Walking umbrella in the colorfully crowded beach

1/25/16   Monday   Ft. Myers Beach, FL

Lynne Shepherd's birthday!

What a day this has been. And the ending is so beautiful.

Ft. Myers Beach Sunset

But the beginning was rough. My friend, Kelly, died this morning in hospice. She'd been in the hospital for the past 2+ months, mostly w/out a diagnosis and mostly in pain and bored. She was my neighbor for what, 20+ years, is survived by son, Landon (14) and husband, Mike, as well as a couple of nieces and 2 brothers and a passel of friends and co-workers. I'm sad. I'm relieved. I'm sad. I've great memories of her and miss her already, regretting that more opportunities to make memories are not available. Relieved because she was so very tired. Her body had really just given out. Her hospital stay was mostly boring for her. When I spoke to her on Thursday she just sounded so very tired. Breathing was labored. I suspect she wasn't particularly interested in anything I had to say and, ast, pleased that I had called her. And now, how to support Landon and Mike? Not a clue, especially from this distance.

And for my own loss of a friend, I'm particularly regretting not being with MY peeps and neighbors as we negotiate life without one of our own. Kelly has lived in this small neighborhood for those 20+ years. Surely we neighbors will be together at her funeral or maybe in a neighborhood gathering of some sort. But, I'll not be there. For sure, being back home will have a different feel this May without Kelly. No idea what Mike and Landon will continue...the garden, who mows, what about reading the paper at the picnic table? I want to be with my neighbors to tell Kelly stories and to help her son remember her as we knew her...and I'm not there. My loss completely.

And David and I have had a terrifically full day before and after the Kelly news. Talking to two boat yards this morning we've settled on Olsen Marina/yard to investigate our rudder issues. So we get hauled tomorrow around noon, hopefully to then go to lunch while they repair everything and we go back in the water, all well, at 3 PM. Sounds like a great scenario. We'll see.

then off to the BEACH! At last. The Gulf of Mexico!!!

There it is! The Gulf of Mexico!

Great stuff on this crowded beach:

Sand Cities

Amazing star fish and so many of them. This one is palm size.

A researcher.

Whelks. So many were washed up. Still alive.

We left Amelia in charge of the boat while we were at the beach. You can see here how seriously she takes her job as Bay/boat Watch.    

Amelia went out on deck several times today both with human company and without. She MUST be bored!!!

Coming back from the beach we dinghy-ed over to where we are going to be hauled tomorrow. Pre-planning our route so we won't be late. And, we ran out of gas. Just... ran out of gas. The real petrochemical kind that powers the dinghy. So we paddled to a Boat Club and begged some petrol which was generously offered. While waiting for David to procure gasoline this fine lady (or fellow:) came to visit.    

Big Blue or Big Bird? This great blue was within 10" of me.

So, with gasoline we made it back to the boat in time to toast the setting sun, finished dinner of leftovers. Now to do a few more small tasks before bed. We'll be sleeping in the fo'c's'le as we've torn the aft cabin bed apart so that the mechanic has easy access to the rudder and steering compartment tomorrow.

New adventures.

1/24/16     Sunday         Fr. Myers Beach, FL


Sadness. Just learned that my/our friend, Kelly, has been moved to hospice. She has been in the hospital for more than 2, nearly 3 months, with a mysterious illness, virus maybe and her systems just seem to be shutting down. Sigh. Modern medicine is not as miraculous as I'd like it to be at this moment. Godspeed, Kelly. Blessings to her surviving family.

So David and I survived yesterday's high winds and today was a sunny wonder...though cooler than I think FL temps should be. We got ourselves up and out of Ft Myers by 1 PM -ish and made our way via motor down the last 10+ miles of the Caloosahatchee River to the Sanibel Inlet and the Gulf of Mexico!!! We saw it. And we almost entered it.

The miles were easy. I was the helms person most of the time. Made only one wrong turn and had to backtrack a quarter mile or less. David was talking to several different folks to get opinions and advice about our sloppy rudder post...the slop we discovered during the high winds 2 evenings ago. It is really great to have people we/he trusts to offer advice, knowing we don't have to do what they say but excellent to have their knowledgeable opinions. The opinion we most want to follow is from Don who suggests the problem is with the rudder stuffing box and to have someone here or in the Keys have a look at it. We've all decided it isn't catastrophic, but something that should be repaired/remedied. So we'll call the suggested boat yard here in Ft Myers Beach first thing tomorrow morning. Hoping to get a quick out and in (out of the water and back in again) and have the mechanic discover the simple problem - maybe stuffing box needs repacking - and fix it...and off we'll go to the Keys....at last. We'll see what happens in the morning. If not a quick remedy we will wait or we'll stay and enjoy Sanibel and Captiva Islands while the work is done.

The moon is beautiful tonight.   And we are safe, warm, cozy.

1/23/16   Saturday    Ft Myers, FL

EXHAUSTING. Thank goodness we're on a mooring but even still.... Winds throughout the night between 20-25 knots. And today up to 38 knots seen on the instruments with reports of gusting to 50 knots. We were like what I imagine being on a bunking bronco would feel like...for nearly 24 hours. And the wind whistled and the rigging shook. There were more noises than we could identify...especially distressing at night. Not a lot of easy sleeping last night.

waves reached 2.5-3 feet

One boat nearby broke its mooring line and has ended up grounded on the nearby island. No one was on the boat and it doesn't look too damaged. Can't be sure what the bottom looks like.

Not us.

Nothing to do today but lay or sit low. We checked on the rudder which is showing some wear and sounding sloppy in the erratic seas. We'll check that more completely tomorrow and, perhaps, spend some time and money on MORE MAINTENANCE. David pointed out that we've used this boat hard over the past 4 months, much more than we ever used Compass Rose in her entire life w/us. True.
David took a long nap this afternoon and I read and colored and, after the wind and water settled a bit made roast chicken and beets for dinner.

Interesting to get to a place, not of fear but of realization that there is nothing to do to change the situation. You/we just have to go through it, as prepared as possible to respond to any eventuality.

The book I'm reading is disturbing, Running With Scissors, A Memoir by Augusten Burroughs. I'm reminded of a conversation with cousin Kay about how whatever our childhood and family life is, it is our "normal" and we survive (usually, to some degree, at least). Our instinct is to survive. We judge all others based on our "normal". Often we judge harshly. Often the "normal" needs to change for our health and the health of society. Well, yes. I think so. I don't want filth and abuse to be anyone's "normal". But not everyone needs to adhere to my "normal" or to American "normal" or, or, or... Not sure where I'm going with this thinking except to recognize that "normal" is a societal and cultural construct and, perhaps, we can expand our/my idea of "normal" or loose that concept all together (?).  Okay, enough rambling...for the moment.

It is getting cold and I'm totally looking forward to low winds, warm sun and calm seas tomorrow. But tonight the moon is brilliant. And Amelia knows how to deal with inclement weather.

stranded boat and rising full moon in the trees

Weathering the weather

even looks cold

1/21/16     Friday           Ft. Myers

What a wet, windy, ugly day! Only available rescue was a warm and wonderful friendship. After a pretty raucous, weather-wise, David and I put better, stronger, more secure mooring lines on the pennant (during a break in the rain), gathered our stuff including dry clothes for after-shower/bath and headed into shore to meet Sheldon. About halfway across the bay it started pouring rain. Yikes! Not to cold but really blowing and WET. So the after-shower clothes were now pre-shower clothes...the pants, at least.

Then, off to breakfast in a downtown cafe suggested by the marina. Riding in a car. We lingered over breakfast since it was still raining. Great conversation - political, environmental, relationships, sailing, travel in general. David's replacement phone had arrived at the marina so we decided to go to the AT&T store to get all the transfer of data taken care of professionally. Done! Then some other shopping for fun in a Mall, lunch in the Food Court. Could have been at the Maine Mall except this one was two or three times larger. Our purchases:

David's new sandals. Our watercolors. I got a pair of socks for my wet, cold feet, too

New $20 watches. Replacing David's free one with the really broken band and mine that took a swim when I fell in the
river this summer the first time I tried to get from the dinghy onto Grace

Sheldon had s shirt printed for a cycling friend. "One Less Car" printed on the shirt.

Then off to the Ft. Myer History Museum. We spent almost 2 hours looking and reading I learned something about the Calusa tribe/community and wonder if the Caloosahatchee River is named after them.

Back at the marina we all had showers. Sheldon was rethinking the plan to sail a bit farther south with us. The weather is going to be dismal tomorrow and then the winds were predicted to be perfect for sailing south again...this time really sailing, perhaps. Now, though, winds for Sunday are wimpy so probably no sailing. Sooooo... out to dinner to decide our travel companionship plans.

Good fried seafood at Joe's, w/favorite beer, Newcastle. More topics of conversation...welfare, medical marijuana, homelessness, where to live when we're 80, community in a jointly purchased motel in a warm place.  Sheldon decided to not join us since the arrangements were iffy regarding both sailing and returning him to Ft Myers...and the slight allergy to kitty.

David and I had a lumpy dinghy ride back to Grace after goodbye hugs w/Sheldon. I think I was up for about 30 minutes before hitting the bed around 8:45 PM. A way to get warm after the day of damp, chilly-ness. Great to re-new friendship w/Sheldon and hear about his various volunteer works to benefit all rather than those who already have privilege. Makes me smile and be hopeful, provides me w/a bit of direction possibilities post ICW travel.

Hmmmmm.

1/21/16   Thursday   Ft. Myers

At last! We've crossed FL, through the St Lucie Canal and Lake Okeechobee and the Okeechobee  Waterway and the Caloosahatchee (say that word, it tickles your tongue) River, 3 locks and numerous bridges that opened "on request" and... here we are in Ft. Myers! This, too, has been a long journey.

Today we did about 50 miles which doesn't sound like much but at 8 knots it took a while. We finally got the anchor up around 8:00 this morning. Anchor had buried itself very securely in what looked like limestone mud. Aah, security. Morning was beautiful. Sunrise was nearly as beautiful as last night's sunset. But we were on a mission to get to Ft Myers before nightfall so who had time for photos?

I did a sewing project (by hand!) while David took the helm early. Later in the day I took over while he took a turn at stripping......varnish. The locks continue to fascinate me. Here in FL, unlike VA experience, the locks have lines/ropes hanging down into them every 4-6 feet. So, the lock provides the dock lines that we secure to the boat to keep it in place as the water fills or discharges. Seems to me a better and more efficient system. Curious, too, though appreciated, that the locks are also "on request" from about 6 AM - 5 PM rather than at specific, scheduled times.

Our travel was mostly through a wide channel throughout the day but the terrain and vegetation kept changing.

These photos don't do justice to the color and texture and beauty of this landscape

...but here they are

For a while the banks would be pasture land with palm trees (odd in itself), then there would be large tracts of open, cultivated or fallow land with fences and drainage ditches, and, finally, an orange grove. There were stretches of open land contrasted with 1950's grid developments (like my grandparents bought into and which I really sort of like), or single, beautifully manicured mac-mansions...or more modest but more contemporary than 1950's houses on short canals with boats tucked alongside the houses. Beautiful fantasy-provoking tour of FL canal living.

Ft Myers is busy (and shallow) water with lots of bridges, and traffic. Our mooring is a bit away from the marina and it is supposed to rain relentlessly for the next two days. Sheldon met us around 4 PM. He and David did grocery shopping while I paid on-line bills and caught up with Freeport Players biz. We all brought Grace out to the mooring, had dinner and made play and travel plans for the next several days.

Hoping the rain holds off until we get the extra mooring lines on in the morning (in case of high winds) and get into shore for a driving tour of Ft. Myers. Seems we won't make the planned/hoped for trip to Sarasota, given weather. Maybe Murray will come visit us here...or not.

Full lives.

1/20/16   Wednesday      Freeport Players Annual Meeting

Transiting Lake Okeechobee today. It was a bit rough - light chop is the description from the lock keeper. Mostly it was rolling/wallowing but not too bad. The wind had subsided and there was a bit of discomfort. Standing in one place was difficult as the waves kept trying to move you over to another place.

We left out Port Mayaca neighborhood around 9:30 AM, through the lock which only changed our elevation by about 3', nothing like the St. Lucie lock which was 12'.

Mayaca Lock neighborhood

Locked in again.

David did most of the steering today. I worked on scraping varnish off the rails. I took over near the west end of the lake and inched our way through a really narrow channel with grass growing about 10' on either side of us. Depth was about 11'. Lots of water!

grass and island shallows about 10' from us, narrow channel

Help from the numbers and the birds

We ran along the dike at Clewiston for about 12miles. Weird to know that there is water on the other side of the embankment. And the water changed depth, 22' to 14', in about 30 seconds time. A little nerve wracking, t say the least. A good opportunity for a fight - snipish-ness - between David and self about whose safety instincts should be followed, mine or his. Is it because he is the man or the more experienced sailor that HIS instincts win out? I know he knows more than I. But/and my reaction is around the challenges of sexism. Sigh and on, well. We soon managed to laugh at some different nonsense.

Some mystery animal swam across the canal around the dike in front of us. A rounded head and it swam sagitally - up and down - through the water and at one point dove.  A snake? Really large, if so, or an otter? Disappeared into the water weeds.

After passing through another lock at Moore Haven we were in agriculture country. Saw some large cattle which reminded us of the Spain emblems we saw on so many hills of the bull silhouette. And then we saw a boat sailing!!! As we approached they hailed us and held up their gas can. They'd run out of fuel. We had some. So we came alongside, checking them out first to make sure (to the best of our ability) that they weren't pirates. A young man (16?) with a thin beard, and a 50-something gent. Short conversation suggested that the place they expected to refuel was now out of business. They were delivering the boat to a non-profit - Wounded Warriors or Women Warriors. I was definitely a boat in need of love, money and lots of repairs. We gave them the fuel and a handheld radio and a few prayers and sent them on their way. They only have abt 6 miles to reach their destination and they'll make it tonight but probably not with too much comfort. They seem safe, though.

We're anchoring at Big Bend, a wide spot in the canal. It is beautiful!  Quiet. Lots of barn swallows skimming the water. A flock of white egrets, about 20, flew by, their wingtips dipping lightly into the water. So beautiful. And a black heron of some sort called and called. I'd never heard them speak.

David and I had cocktails on the fore deck as the sun traded places with the almost full moon. Even Amelia joined us for a few minutes.

Our evening accommodations

And the sunset...    

I might sleep out on the deck tonight, at least start there. It will be cold again but the nearly full moon and the stars.....David and I did the "star light, star bright, first star I see tonight" poem with wishes for the first 6 or 8 stars we saw. We are so blessed. Wishing health and courage for my friend, Kelly.

1/19/16   Tuesday    Leaving Stuart, FL    Arrived at Port Mayaca Locks


Cold again today...54 on the boat this morning and a STIFF northerly wind...not breeze...WIND. We went into the dock to sell the extra bicycle. Success! I got my last shower for a couple of days, finished my book, Open House (not recommended) so I could leave it behind.

Leaving home...our water home port for the past 3 weeks. Hard to believe we were there so long but when we discovered that Indiantown had no room we stayed in Sunset Bay to do the maintenance. Made some new friends and even those we didn't really befriend, we enjoyed long, one-time conversations. I learned to play a new kind of dominos. We got some advice from others who've crossed Lake Okeechobee, and generally enjoyed the ambience of the place where people return every year, some for 4 months of winter.

So I had many of the same feelings I remember when I would fly out of NC after visiting there. A sadness, sometimes fear, the possibility of not seeing people/place again and wanting to deepen relationships. The sadness of choosing to leave, different from the sadness of being left. Accepting the responsibility of leaving. Hurts my heart even while I'm comfortable (?)/confident of the rightness of my choice. Honestly, writing about this I feel my shoulders pulling in to protect my heart. Sigh.

These photos of our neighborhood these past 3 weeks

Now that we're traveling again, there is more to see.

Egrets and fish pole holders. There were more egrets before I got my camera out

A canal neighborhood along the way

And another lock! One of 5 we'll pass going cross country to Ft. Myers.

Getting Locked in again

Begin the flood

Half flood

Letting us out and on our way

Some beautiful, some modest homes along the waterway. This one has great landscaping.

We knew we wouldn't get into the lake today and the wind is too high to allow safe passage. So we've stopped just before the Port Mayaca Lock which empties into the lake. We spent hours - well at least 1 hour - trying to tie up to a dolphin for the night. Finally, got the bow attached by my hanging out over the bowsprit and attached the stern by David taking a row in the dinghy.

David captures a dolphin!

Now David is cooking. I'm writing. We're both hoping to see the alligator reported to call this area home. And we're hoping to stay warm tonight.

1/18/16   Monday   Martin Luther King, Jr. Day   Stuart, FL


Holy Cow Paddies! It's cold here tonight. It has been cold all day. Difficult to get out of bed this morning and it will be really difficult tomorrow morning with predicted 44 degrees.

Okay, I know. Forty four is way warmer than 28 but this is Florida, for goodness sake! And I've put ALL my winter wear stuff deep into deep storage. I even have the propane space heater on in the saloon. And my neck wrapped in warm material. HA! No socks, yet, though.

Kitty just did the biggest stretch. Woke herself up snoring, stretched and is now curled and snoring again. Even she has tucked her nose in to avoid the cold.

We'd hoped/expected to leave Stuart this morning but we've been velcro-ed in....until the wind subsides a bit more. All the marinas and anchorages along the canal - lake - canal that let's us arrive on the west coast of FL at Ft. Myers are, reportedly, "full" with other boats waiting out the wind, the "northers", so they can cross the Okeechobee Lake safely and comfortably. So, best to wait here rather than be stuck hanging out in a canal with no place to drop our anchor and lay our heads.

So used the morning to read (me) and get broken phone replaced (David), final provisioning meant bike rides to the grocery store, charge our various electronic implements...all before 5 PM. Then, fuel, water and pump out for the boat and I packed up our folding bikes in their travel bags (!). Took a bit of trial and error, especially with the baskets. Finally back to the boat for more reading (me and David).

Earlier in the day David became a hero for some other people...other than me for whom he is always a hero. A lovely power boat was trying to catch a mooring a couple down from us. The man would steam up to the mooring then run down from the flying bridge to take/snatch the boat hook from his wife's (?) hand to pick up the buoy. Twice that didn't work and he had to run back up to the flying bridge to regain control of the boat. Once it was moving too quickly backwards and endangering another boat. David and I watched, amused and horrified and David said, "I'm going to help them." Good thing, too. David motored over in our dinghy while I tried to hail them on the radio. No response on the radio but that was okay since the captain clearly had his hands full managing the boat. David, at the bow of the power boat asked the woman to toss a bow line. She tried twice to toss it - tangled or short, no good. David fished the line out of the water and yelled "Watch your stern, Captain" as the boat backed hazardously close to another moored boat. I was wishing David had his life vest on. Our dinghy and David looked pretty small and vulnerable next to that high-rise boat and it's high bow. Finally the line was attached to the mooring - thank you David - and the boat was secured (sort of). And David came home to Grace, a hero in a couple of other people's eyes. Clearly, the boat is bigger than the Captain's abilities and I'm thinking the woman, the mate, needs some practice, too. They'll get there. We still need practice in so many things.

Hoping to leave tomorrow as soon as we sell our bicycle around 10:00 AM. Fingers crossed for all good outcomes.

1/17/16     Sunday     Stuart, FL

"The wind is blowing...." but its not snowing. But, brother and sister, the wind did BLOW and thunder and lightning happened early morning and wind throughout the day. I heard David up on the aft deck way before dawn. He came in to ask me to come and help him put another anchor line out...an additional line on the mooring. Sure, happy to do that in the dark with the wind topping 30 knots. Actually, life jackets donned, out we went. It was warm air, just moving much more swiftly than was comfortable. Flattening out over the "pulpit" (think ol' what's her name in that famous movie about the really big ship that hit the iceberg, on her belly rather than standing at the bow of the boat) I was able to run another line through the pennant. We felt so secure after the addition that we went back to sleep for another hour or so. The wind whipped us around, though, because we have so much windage.

And then there was the remaining last maintenance gig with the engine. I wondered if it would take and hour or two. Four hours later we closed the engine compartment so we could meet cousin Kathryn. We took the dinghy into the dock...a wet ride due to the wind and waves. Did the laundry. Had a bagel and a mimosa - the Marina's "brunch" for all the customers. Kathryn and Lew were not able to come visit after all so we came back around 5 PM.

Friends who were anchored took off for the other side of the river early this morning. Since they were anchored and on the lee shore they wanted to get away from the shore. They came back at the same time we were returning to Grace.  They agreed to come over after we'd all had dinner. We saw a beautiful, dramatic sunset while cooking out.

Ready to move on to our next destination now...tomorrow, unless we have to stay another day to sell one of the bikes. Someone has expressed interest. Hoping for calmer seas.

1/16/15   Saturday     Stuart, FL

Oh YOGA. Terrific class w/Olga today, much more difficult that last week's Saturday class. Last Sat. she gave me a little tactile aid and stretched my ribcage away from my pelvis when in down-dog. I could hear my past teacher self saying "make space between your lowest rib and your pelvis." Easy to forget to do that unless you (I) practice it regularly. Today Olga gave us a short lesson in ____forgot___the name of move___ the movement from plank to cobra...asking us to shift slightly forward before doing the lowering to the mat. On my. Great for the triceps! I could feel my face flushing with the effort. Love it!

Met David, unplanned, he coming from food store and me traveling to. He waved politely as we were passing on our bikes and finally recognized ME in my matching (his) red helmet. Silly man. We laughed and continued on our way. Back at the marina, then back at the boat we both took a nap. I took mine on the aft deck. The day was soooo bright, sunny and warm - quite a contrast to yesterday. Some food and then......

.....working on the engine.  

Mechanic's helper w/fuel filter

We have one more maintenance thing to do tomorrow then we've done everything but put the snow tires on. And that Maine snow does look beautiful.....from this distance.

Hoping to see cousin, Kathryn, tomorrow just in case we really do leave for the west coast (of FL) on Monday.

1/15/16    Friday     Stuart, FL

YIKES! A tornado watch! "...take shelter in a sturdy building..." or "...seek shelter in the lowest floor of the building..." WHAT building? I'm on a boat. How about the bilge? That's the lowest spot but that is pretty small. I don't think all three of us would fit and what a mess if we did. David and I packed some dry clothes in our backpacks, put the kitty carrier together and her halter on her, just in case we had to make a quick exit from Grace. Wait. We don't want to make an exit from Grace. That's one of the reasons we named the boat Grace, because of the Grace that has brought us this far. The storm passed to the south of us and blew itself out and away from us. I'll check in on cousin Nancy whose town was under tornado watch longer than we. We had a lot of rain and some wind but I don't think it was sustained at 30 mph as expected. And, except for the leaking skylight we were snug. Our new wind scoop doubles nicely as a leak deterrent on the forward hatch.

So while watching out for tornados (and watch spouts) we got a bunch of stuff done on the interior of the boat. We finished the planned maintenance and ran the boat to check for engine leaks of water or oil or diesel. I finished the second galley curtain and put the bright white thing up, only to decide to shorten it to fit more appropriately behind the glass storage shelf...and have more light.

We had a serious financial discussion. See me wrinkle my brow and scrunch my eyebrows. Turns out David thought we'd need to draw down our savings on a regular basis in order to afford our sailing adventure. I, on the other hand, thought we might make some small money from renting our house and living more frugally than we do at home and during the winter. Well, so far we're sort of meeting in the middle - NOT making money and NOT having to dip into savings, so far. We are spending slightly more than we're bringing in...but with the dinners of beans and rice and selling our bodies...no, just kidding...we are living comfortably, reading more, eating more lightly and selling off things we discover we don't need...and buying bicycles. I don't get it. But it's okay. Hey! January has been BIG bill month (think Long Term Care Insurance) for the last 5 years. Why am I worried this year? Because I'm on a boat and that is unusual and you know what b.o.a.t. stands for.
We also tip-toed into the conversation about such a trip again next year. Hmmmm...

Meanwhile, I'm watching T.V. in the Captains' lounge while David is riding his bike to the food store. And, footage of the FIRST football Super Bowl - before it was the Super Bowl (1965? or 1968?) - has been pasted together so, tonight, we can all watch that first game...between Kansas and Green Bay Packers, I think. And I'm not even being tongue in cheek. This is exciting news and I'm sorry that I won't stay out late enough to see the film. Apparently a man who played in that game will get his own copy of the film.

David may decide to volunteer at the boat show tomorrow. I think I'll volunteer to go to yoga since I missed again today...the tornado watch, you know. Hoping we'll get ourselves to move on in our journey early next week. 'Go West young (or old) people.'

1/14/16    Thursday   Stuart, FL

Disappointment. I missed yoga this morning. Just started too late and couldn't move quite fast enough getting off the boat. So. Coffee and a warm shower and a visit w/Mary commiserating about past bad weather and boat/travel challenges.

David and I came back to the boat and took Grace for a warm-the-oil- up spin...then, dove into maintenance! Roll up the rug. Open up that engine compartment. Drain that oil. Get that oil filter casing off. Take that impeller out. Change those sacrificial zincs. Etc. Then put it all back together again. Not a single screw or bolt left over. My husband is amazing. All this between lunch and before our English friends, Joann and Craig, came at 5:00 PM for drinks and chips. TaDa!

Now I'm slightly drunk - 3 Dark & Stormies are a bit over my limit. Glad I'm not driving tonight. Dinner is eaten. Dishes washed. Leftovers ready for soup tomorrow.

Life is good.

1/12 and 1/13/16     Tuesday and Wednesday    Stuart, FL

Oh dear. Ordinariness is setting in - the regularity and comfort of... Home, Home on the Boat (to the tune of Home on the Range). We get up. We make coffee. We drink coffee. We talk about the day and what task we each hope to accomplish. We brush out teeth. We feed the cat and scoop her poop (I'm the poop scooper...snarl). And we're off and running or reading or motoring or...or...yoga-ing or doing the laundry or phoning....those regular things we humans do in our daily lives, if we're lucky.

Tuesday, the day after my birthday celebrations, David took off to get boat maintenance parts. I think I stayed around the boat and did some novel reading. He returned and I took off to the Captains' lounge to do some computer work for Freeport Players and a recommendation letter for a young friend applying to uNCSA. Back home on the boat David did said maintenance work - part of it continued into today and another part will go into tomorrow - I was the helper, am the helper and will continue to be the helper, handing him paper towels, tools, trash bags as needed. I made a quick dinner and prepared for the FP Board meeting. After the meeting, with snow storm in the background in Maine, our United States of America President was giving his final State of the Union address. I love my President and am so proud to live in the country that elected him! Then, beddy-bye.

Rough night of disrupted sleep. I kept hearing a new bumping noise (things that go bump in the night) and worried, without getting up to do anything about it, that the dinghy that I may have tied to tightly was wearing a hole in its side from bumping the hull of the sail boat so often. Turns out that the dinghy didn't sink and appears none the worse for wear and my close hauled tie up. Phew!

Today - Wednesday - David took me in so I could go to my yoga class - Yin, very relaxed/released stretching. Delicious. Tomorrow is the Vinyasa strength class. I stopped at the bike shop and bought my basket and put it on. And got another photo of that/those amazing lizards.

Back at the boat David had made a maintenance repair successfully. Both of us were tired...from yesterday's work, yoga, and the lumpy sleep, so decided to close up the engine compartment and read or/and take naps and get a fresh boat maintenance start tomorrow...with new energy. So we did. David took off to get a haircut and take a shower. Dinner made and eaten we played a couple games of Take II, declined an invitation to go to a comedy night in town, and soon I'll be back to reading a new-to-me Louise Erdrich novel, The Round House

Life is good. Blessings abound.