4/30/16            Saturday            Cape May, NJ

Somehow NJ feels as if it is almost home....uh, that we are almost home to Maine. Not that NJ feels like home. No. But the Coast Guard station anchorage at Cape May is VERY familiar. We are within feet of where we dragged anchor last fall. BUT, we have a bigger better anchor and captain and mate...and mascot. So, thinking "all good."

Posting early as this has been a looooooong day - 4 AM - anchoring at 3:30 PM and that was all travel in between. The first hour + was in the dark, in a well lighted canal but dark nevertheless. Then lighter and lighter until full daylight by the time we exited the C&D Canal and entered Delaware Bay. The travel was mostly smooth and we had our companion boats in pretty close quarters 75% of the way. Dream Catcher ( Jayne and Gary) lead us out of the harbor and into the Bay. Opotamus (Bruce from Toronto) lead us down much of the bay. Grace took the lead when the current turned against us (bigger engine) and the wind was too much on our noses. And then along came Kindred Spirit (big engine trawler) to lead us all into the Cape May Canal...except Dream Catcher had to go around the point because her mast is too tall for bridges in the canal.

Seems as if we're all bedded/anchored down for the night even though it is not even 4: PM. Scotch is poured. Beans are cooking. Amelia as appeared for food, water and company.

Enough for this day.........except the photos.

Opotamus and her captain, Bruce

Dream Catcher

Pinaple ship

another version of a pink tree from
yesterday in Chesapeake City

this fuzzy lighthouse in Delaware Bay
reminds me of a Christmas ornament

view from David's office window

4/29/16         Friday              Chesapeake City, MD



What to do on a rainy day in port??? We decided against leaving this morning after all. Boats US said the Del. Bay was "a mess."  Now who in their right mind would want to be in a messy bay? Not I, or David or the other several boats we're hanging with in Chesapeake City.

I got a hair cut, made lasagna, went for a walk w/David, forced Amelia to stand in the wet grass for a few minutes, toured the C&D Canal Museum (wonderful, amazing history and engineering feat) AND we plugged in so that we had HEAT! Hurrah!!! And, and, and.....we watched two families of geese/goslings - one pair w/8 young uns and one pair w/7.

spring geese

Other folks we'd met during the wait out Joaquin event in Port Washington last fall are in our same port here. They (Shannon and Larry on EmmaJean) stopped by to chat about our adventures and plan of departure. Lovely to re-meet them. I'm loving this sense of full circle with people we are in touch with through travel.

same family

Oh, and David took photos:

Bridge at Chesapeake City

Lighthouse, C&D Canal Museum

Grace at Chesapeake City dock

And a couple of photos from weeks ago:

Tug disguised as a lighthouse - somewhere in NC or VA

Heron from Jacksonville

4/28/16        Thursday             Chesapeake City, MD


Stayed in bed w while this morning. Too cold to get up with no particular reason to get up early.....except to feed Amelia....but then back to bed with my book about expats in Asia. I've read several books either by  authors from other countries or about living in other countries. Another form of travel and seeing from another perspective. Out of bed and trying to get warm by around 8:00 AM - coffee, dishes, breakfast and I turned on our propane heater which is at the top of the saloon so it heats our heads very well if we are standing. Feet. Cold.

spring tree

blossoms on pavement

Took a trip of about 100 yards up to the Town Hall and got important info - recycling is single source, hair cut is possible at the corner, Harbor Master might be able to take you to the food store. Score on all accounts but hair cut. The Harbor Master, Buddy Shepherd, was totally charming and very generous with his time. Jayne, from Dream Catcher in front of us and I went to do shopping while our men talked of weather and researched possible leavings. Mr Shepherd was a bit shy with us but warmed up as the trip went on. We invited him for coffee or wine - "We both bought cheap box wine."  No, but "I've never seen a catamaran." "oh, Jayne would probably invite you on a tour of their boat," I offered with Jayne in the back seat. So, the invitation was made for him to come after his work.

Jayne & Gray on Dream Catcher

Meanwhile, Jayne and I had decided on cocktails at 4:30, hoping Mr Shepherd would be off work by then, and shared dinner at 6:00 PM. We did our part of dividing the food labor and menu. David and I got a brief nap in before prep time.

Then, there was Bruce on Opodamus who we'd met in NYC and been sort of in touch with until early January and reconnected with a week or two ago. He was anchored in the pond just beyond the dock where we'd anchored last fall. He dinghied over, we invited him to join us for drinks, stayed for dinner. Mr. Shepherd didn't come so I called him. He showed up about the time we were going to eat. We delayed. He stayed and chatted and chatted. Really interesting man of 80 who was in Air Force, owned several businesses and now is part owner of a government contract business. On the ride from the food store I joked w/him about not being able to tell us much about his business because if he did he'd have to kill us. It was a fun interaction and exchange. He told us all more at dinner. Such a delight and very smart man.

Enjoyed the evening with new and older friends and spoke of going to the museum tomorrow before we depart. I suspect we won't make it.

4/27/16         Wednesday               Chesapeake City, MD   middle of C&D Canal




A gentle seas day. Phew, what a relief. Amelia still slept under the covers all day. It was, still is, chilly.

William P Lane Bridge

This bridge just outside Annapolis is an engineering beauty. It was two bridges, I assume one going east the other west. It had such sweeping beauty. Even in the rain and chill.

Another view

We shared the helms-person responsibilities pretty equally today and I did some suggesting about navigating. Realized that David does the long view planning navigating and I'm good at following his lead AND/but finding our way in the up close arena. Since I consult the paper charts more than he does I noticed that a diagonal course, between two major shipping channels, was on the paper chart. "Hey, why not go the paper chart route already laid out rather than trying to devise our own?" "Well, okay, maybe. What's the heading?" "028 degrees." "looks good" So we had only to look out for crab pots (not many) fishing boats (several) and other uncharted obstructions.

I have to remind myself to look near as well as look far. I have the look far (scan the distance front, side, back side) for vessels on the horizon. Have to remind myself to look near - those crab pots! I've two memories about look far which might cause my preference for that. When my dad was teaching me to drive (after driver's education in high school) he noticed that I was watching the car exactly in front of or exactly behind me. He suggested that I scan several cars away so that I could plan ahead and avoid  surprises that could cause emergency action rather than more cautious planned action...always anticipate what other drivers might do, he advised. Not bad advice in boating, either, or life to some extent. The other look far was a fantasy book that David and I read aloud to each other early in our marriage, maybe before - The Earth Sea Trilogy, by Ursala LeGuin."Look Far" was the name of the young magician's boat.

Other obstructions to look far for included Metis Leader. So glad this vessel got through the C&D before we entered! Think again the theme music from Jaws.

Metis Leader, we think a car carrier

as close as we want to be

Not soooo large in the distance but up close and personal....YIKES! I was feeling our boat was a bit diminutive around all the other boats in anchorages and harbors we've visited and hung out with but now this! Don't know the depth or tonnage but it is 658' long and 105' wide - LARGE!




We're definitely in red dirt territory again, yesterday, too. No more the black dirt or sandy loam.

Another oddity coming into the top of Chesapeake Bay just before the C&D Canal was this packed to the gills RV camp. Could not tell how many but most had these large looking screened porches across most of one side of the vehicle. Most looked as if they weren't going to move...more like a suburban trailer park.  Hard to imagine living this close or even vacationing this close, to others.

RV Park

We arrived in Chesapeake City, where we visited last fall, around 4 PM, no rain but still a chill. There was a large catamaran on the dock and a trawler leaving...just in time for us to arrive...the trawler leaving. We docked. Met Jane and Gary on Dream Catcher. Enjoyed them and promised to check weather together after we got settled. Then as we were settling a scruffy man with a camera came and stood on the raised dock near our door. "David, there is a man outside our door that wants to talk about our boat." Turns out he was with a "family" of folks, all who came over to chat, who were from Bremen, ME. The two men and child were helping the woman bring her boat from VA back to ME. We visited and talked. The young person, not a child really, maybe 12, wanted to meet Amelia. I suggested that all of us come aboard and get out of the cold. All did. We had a delightful time talking....boats, weather, pathways down and up the state of New Jersey. They left (Gordon, Theo, Al and Brenda on Sidera) and we went to check in with Jane and Gary. Chat, chat, chat.  They think they will leave around 2 AM to catch a good tide. We think we'll stay another day and leave on Friday.

Try to get a haircut and do some provisioning tomorrow.

4/26/16      Tuesday          Annapolis, MD


A pretty uneventful day. I'm not complaining. We left Solomon early, knowing it was a long haul to Annapolis.

Solomon anchorage and mooring field

Last fall we got that white dot of a mooring. This year we just anchored at the edge of the mooring field. I totally did not recognize from last fall to this spring until David told me we were in the same place. Oh well.

So, left early. Easy, easy beginning with very few lumps and even those diminished as the day went on. The only trauma was bringing the sail back in. We had to let it flog to take the pressure off it so David could haul the line in. The flogging, the whap, whap, whap freaked Amelia and she took off for the bed covers. Didn't see her again until we went to wake her just before we turned into the Annapolis Harbor turn. She just really hates loud noises, especially unknown and unexpected ones. She mostly stayed under-cover today, after the flogging noise.

Arrived into Annapolis Harbor and mooring field around 3:00 PM. Gathered our laundry and bath soap and off we went to the Harbor Master's hut. "So sorry to be so late." and I paid for our mooring. Then, off to the laundry room, laundry washed and dried and folded! Ta Da!!!!!

We were scheduled to dine with Lynda and Jeff but no good. They were too busy at the end of this day. So we came home, chatted about the day and about out trip, in specifics and general. David cooked dinner and I'm ready to hit the water bed. Hoping to get to Chesapeake City tomorrow.

4/25/16         Monday             Solomon Island, MD

Well THAT was HARD!  Leaving Deltaville was easy. Pretty morning sky, lovely wind fro the south/ south east. Gentle seas. Until we got into the Bay again. HA! As we continued on our way we had WAVES. These waves were predicted at about 20", 1/2 meter. But, they were more like 1.5 meters. The only good thing was that they were sustained waves rather than sharp ones. The entire day was waves. Four little waves from the stern. Then a BIG wave from the stern quarter causing us to plunge and roll and waddle and lift. then back to little waves, stern and stern quarter.

Grace  is amazing. She just kept taking the waves, rounding up, re-pointing and plowing or wallowing on. Steady.  I never felt in danger just really uncomfortable with the constant up, down, side, up, side, down motion that was often unpredictable. David and I shared the helm responsibilities and navigation responsibilities. One of us working while the other read or took cat naps.

Amelia, speaking of cats, was really uncomfortable and sometimes just frightened. She lay close to the thigh of whoever was seated. Once after a particularly rough patch she slunk (past tense of slink) fro the bed to the settee toward us at the helm. I was managing a sail so David scooped her up and held her while he steered and I conquered the sail. Then I took her to the settee to settle down. She was better with human companionship rather than crawling under the covers.

Crossing the Potomac River was horrible. How did Washington do it? David says that when we came south it was totally calm. I don't remember.

We've anchored for the night in a place that we moored on the way south. I totally did not recognize it until David insisted we were "right here." With more trained eyes I do remember this place. We came in cold and nearly dark after a long day, not rough but one of our first 8 hour days back then. We picked up a mooring in a vacant field about 200 yards from where we are now. A bigger boat tan we was moored a little to our port bow and another boat was anchored about where we are now. I remember thinking, coming in last year, how twisty and narrow this route was. Now, in the daylight and with 7 months of boating experience, this is a football field.

We've had a beer and chips on the aft deck. A boat, Shine, that we met last year in Port Washington is on one of the moorings that we didn't pick up last year. I don't remember the people but they are from Castine. Probably will not contact them tonight but might say hello tomorrow as we leave. Seems as if a number of us are heading north and back home.

Dinner soon. Annapolis tomorrow if all goes according to plan.

4/24/16          sunday            Deltaville, VA


Lots of wind last night which assured us that we would NOT be traveling today. Joyful, Joyful I adore wind....NOT!!! but relieved that there was no question of leaving this morning. Decision made.

Amelia and I got up around 7:00 AM. Amelia was up a good half hour earlier begging for company and food. Nope, not yet. But at 7:00 I was too awake to lay around. Besides, I had a book to finish so coffee and sitting in the pilot house....after feeding kitty. Finished the book. I'm surprisingly (to me) really into the John Grisham mysteries/novels. I'll have read most of them by the end of this trip.

Speaking of which....HOW can it be in the twenties of April?!?!?!?!! and barely the early twenties!!! Clearly we're not going to be home by May 15. Merde. While I'm not feeling as homesick as yesterday....actually not at all today....the John Grisham character got home and decided to go back to Europe but there was a home coming event..... I don't want to miss spring in Maine!!! And we know spring happens in May!!! Looking forward to being back "at sea" tomorrow early.

We finished scraping, sanding, oiling the starboard rails this morning. I finished my novel and David got up. BIG breakfast on board and then I beat the shit (dust, cat hair, gunnerrr, stuff) out of our pilot house rug. A perfect place over the dock railing with the north wind blowing strongly all the dust away. It is sooooo gratifying to watch the dirt leave on the wind and/or float away in the water. Apologies fishes and turtles and other aquatic creatures/life.  Then on to the rails. They are beautiful now. We've noticed that the port side rails, finished in Morehead City less than a week ago, are fading. So the future luster of the starboard rails is questionable but for now they are beautiful.  We finished them in time to get a shower and semblance of lunch before our new friend, Penny, picked us up.

What a delightful time with Penny and Joe. Penny took us on a short drive to see the land and beautiful sights. Then to their modular home which was so pretty and on a beautiful lot with lots of green grass and bushes and trees and BIRDS galore...cardinals (male and female), goldfinches, chipping sparrows and a grey bird I didn't recognize. David saw a woodpecker. We chatted and chatted about our various boating experiences. They have quit cruising but had done so for 7 years starting at her age 62, his 67. So, we're sort of on their schedule. Lots of stories and we all shared pretty equally even though they had more experience than we. Joe was a rocket  scientist, as he told me when we met yesterday. "Wow, I've never met a real rocket scientist before." We both laughed. She worked in a job but was totally involved in theater on the technical side "after hours." So we all had lots to talk about. Joe also showed David some stuff about single side ban radios and weather which is one of the reasons we wanted to visit w/them. Joy all around. A couple we hope to remain in touch with.

Back at the boat we've redistributed the stuff on the aft deck, tied things down, put the beaten rug back down, checked the engine fluids, checked the tides and winds for tomorrow, bought eggs and bread and ice and are ready to push off early in the morning.

life is good. We are blessed in so many ways including, especially, friends....the new ones and the ones who've been with us for years.

4/23/16      Saturday              Deltaville, VA              A regular Saturday in the spring....


We slept until kitty totally insisted that somebody get up and give her some food. That would be me. So, kitty gets food, humans get coffee, some outside boat project as it was too wet to sit outside for coffee. Actually, I did sit out and David washed a rail.....or something.

We left in the Deltaville Yachting Center DYC loaner car for the Farmers' Market at the Deltaville Marine Museum where we dined last eve. I'd made a date with Penny just to say hello. Saw her and made a date for tomorrow when she will pick us up and give us a little tour of the area and her husband will help us look at weather, wind and waves, specifically.

Beautiful day for a Farmers' Market and visit to the Museum again. Sort of a festival day there. We walked to the waterfront and chatted with people about the museum boats, saw some crafts and I bought zucchini, strawberries and a coleus since mine from home are wilting away...maybe not enough nutrients in the dirt.

Back on the boat, a nap, reading, cleaning. David took another trip in the car. Amelia and I took a walk in the grass!!! She was antsy in the boat and needed an adventure. So, on with the harness and leash and out we went. She wasn't sure this was a good idea. I carried her off the boat and onto a wide dock. She crouched and explored carefully. I took her to the grass. She was much more at ease and greeted David when he showed up from his drive. Obviously recognized him and went over to where he sat down. We walked a bit further then headed back on the dock, Amelia walking along just like she always was on a leash...until we got to the turn for Grace. Then I picked her up the manage the more narrow dock. She had not walked on land since we visited Winston-Salem back in October and then it was only in the house. I'm surprised she wasn't shaking her feet with every step....saying "what is this?"

I'm enjoying this place. People are very pleasant and the land is familiar...flat, coastal, southern land. But I'm homesick a bit I think or maybe it is just spring fever. I want to sit on my land-based deck and dig in the yard rather than in the single, little flower pot. Talk to my peeps which the wimpy AT&T signal makes impossible. Maybe the true sense of being cut off from immediate communication with my friends and family is contributing to the feelings of displacement. Or maybe just tired of traveling. Somehow, all connections seem tenuous today.

Wait a minute! I'm reading a John Grisham novel, The Broker, and the primary character is disconnected from everything that is familiar. In hiding in a foreign country. Learning a new language. Knows no one. Hmmmm. I'm thinking THAT is part of, a major part of, my feelings of disconnect. And now I'm feeling a bit like the child singing the "Hello, Mudder. Hello, Fadder" song, complaining until the sun comes out and he asks them to "kindly disregard this letter."

Signs of spring here in Deltaville:

Buttercups

looking twd Grace

another view of yard

Grace from the yard above

Lounge where I write

Pool outside lounge not uncovered yet

As you can see this is not a bad place to be waiting out the winds and the strawberries are fresh. An osprey family keep us entertained and I saw a golden, gold finch bathing in a puddle today.

Ahhh, spring!

4/22/16           Friday            Deltaville, VA



Amelia writes:

Thank goodness and all my feline ancestors that my humans, Nancy and David, got smart and kept us in port today. I don't think my claws could have hung on for another day like yesterday. For awhile this morning it was touch and go, "No, don't go." Nancy got up several times in the early morning to give me some food and take care of some her biological urges in her litter box. Sweet of her to feed me each time. I DID have to get up, though. No breakfast in bed in spite of my difficult day yesterday. Somehow, I don't rate breakfast in bed. flex my claws and lay my ears back.  She checked the weather at 7:00 am and told David the forecast. Oh dear. Looked risky as if we might be going. But she crawled back in bed.

Then I heard nothing from either of them until 9:00 AM!!! Unheard of, sleeping in bed that late. Hurrah! There was more checking the weather but by then it would make no sense to leave. Besides, the boat was still tucked too tightly in that other slip. Ahh, coffee in the making. Score a day in port.

I went out on the aft deck with my humans. No hurry. What a change. Some talk, idle talk, about small things to do on the boat. Sigh, they just don't quit. "Take a lesson from me," I suggested psychically, as I stretched out in the sun. Then rearranged myself to get ALL muscles closer to horizontal. Nancy noticed that the deck might be too hard and went to the pilot house to get the woven Knot rug that Browne had given them. It was a really nice gesture but the rug still has dog scent in it. Second-hand, you know, and Browne's dog obviously slept on it.  I stretched out on it for a while. I'll get my scent in it soon. Did some clawing, too. That always help. Those little scent glands in my paws, you know.

We all went back in the pilot house while Nan fixed pancakes. Me, I stretched out on the floor, put my head on above rug. David noticed and was pleased that I was, at least, using it as a pillow. Human breakfast on the foredeck but I decided I was comfortable on the rug. Only needed to reposition 4 or 5 times with a couple good stretches and yawns between. I did go out a couple of times and meow pitifully just to let them know I was here. We were all moving in a hazy kind of way. Beautiful sun, bird calls, a really noisy skip jack-type boat across the creek from us finally left. Too much mechanical noise for a relaxing morning but it really didn't last tooooo long. My humans talked about having "spring fever." That must be their excuse for going slow and not being able to rally for a lot of projects. Whatever it takes, I say. Nancy did leave for a while to do "computer work" and David did a small boat project, something about rails.

There was a BIG rain shower, pouring rain, the purrverbial cats and dogs kind. See, I know that expression, too. Great for sleeping. Female human even took a short nap, joining my long nap. Humans went on an adventure of some sort...shopping at the 2nd hand stores, and then out to a fund-raising dinner (?) at the Marine Museum they found in Deltaville last year. They came back before dark so I didn't suffer too much. They talked about BBQ, shrimp and ribs and meeting 2 interesting couples. I enjoyed my sleeping time alone. Don't tell them though. I made a racket when they returned and got some dry food treats. They seem subdued this evening but the radio is on so I have them to lean against and the radio for verbal company. And, I've almost recovered from yesterday's stress.

Maybe my humans will keep the break going tomorrow. I could use them to sleep late again.

P.S. For those of you concerned about my litter box health, rest assured. I'm peeing and pooping regularly again. I know you'll be pleased to have this information

4/21/16       Thursday          Deltaville, VA                Another long day - 75 miles


We're, all three of us, pretty tired. We've now traveled 3 very long days and 1 very hard day. If we're smart we'll rest. Hard to tell if we'll be smart. Sort of depends on the weather which looks sketchy so rest could be in our immediate future.

Traveling through all the military boats in Norfolk. It wasn't as crowded with aircraft carriers as on our trip down. Still.....

sleek

They are such amazingly well-designed, beautiful, functional machines. An honor to their creators and maintainers. But their purpose?!? Hurts my heart in so many ways. Still.......lots of people have work on these ships. Lots have homes and money and food and entertainment and families and....and....
So much noise and activity here but the waterways aren't nearly as crowded as our fall trip. And we're more accustomed to the traffic lanes and navigational aids and the seas are more calm. Maybe it just doesn't seem as crowded because we're more.....seasoned. Still........a military installation IS a military installation. These are war ships no matter how I might try to think of them as peace ships or national security ships. And some people make GOOBS of money because of them.

I enjoyed watching the tiny tugs do their stuff - the gates and gate-keepers, reminded me of lines of kindergartners holding onto looped ropes and being lead along the lane at the So Freeport church daycare center.

Gate keeper

the gate expands like an accordion

The gates are used to enclose, keep out visitors at work sites, military or otherwise though there is limited "otherwise" here on this particular location.

A joy is that we had long radio conversations with our Port Washington friends, Lise and Ken on Quest. They and we waited at the first and only bridge of the day and we followed them until they went, safely we hope, out to sea and we turned up the Chesapeake Bay. A very large battleship preceded us out the harbor and turned safely out to sea. I was sad to see them go.

Quest leading us toward Norfolk, the city proper
We passed them later and they followed us twd the Atlantic
We considered buddy-boating w/them overnight But didn't.

Two security boats "protected"/ rode shotgun for a different vessel, a barge, coming into the harbor. That was weird. One fast pleasure boat was turned away from the direction of the barge. "Stand down immediately!" was the command heard over the radio and the speedy pleasure craft slowed and made a 90 degree turn to port. The same security boat (military) came and stood between us and the direction of the barge. Hmmm. What was that barge carrying???

So we made our way up the southern end of the Chesapeake Bay. Easy going for some time. As the day progressed and as we progressed the wind came on stronger, from our stern  mostly, thankfully. We passed the Wolf Trap light, pictured for those of you who only know Wolf Trap as an arts center.

A sturdy thing all alone in the bay. I remember being impressed when we passed it on our way south. The ride got rougher and rougher as tide against wind begin to effect the sea. I'll remember that this is BIG water with land visible only on  one side since we were toward the middle. I never felt in danger but we did have to hold things on the chart table from sliding into the floor when we took some of the rollers from the back quarter or stern. Ugh. double ugh. Glad I don't get seasick. Glad David and kitty don't get seasick. This would have been the day to make it happen.

Made the turn into Deltaville and wiggled our way through the most circuitous channel to our marina, then squeezed our way into the slip our hostess had given us. Then, finding that we belonged in the one to our port we, manually, pushed and pulled Grace to the other berth only to discover that we would have to re-do our effort (in reverse) in order to get Grace out whenever we decide to leave.

It is spring here. Trees are leafing. Birds are singing, at least calling, or making their wonderful noises. The osprey are building or renovating and squealing to each other...and us(?)....doubt that they're talking to us but then I talk to them so maybe they talk to/about us.

A new favorite bush with spring
leaves, trimmed as hedge

Blossoming vinca

Both of these are on the way from our docked boat to the clubhouse and office and bath house. This is a lovely marina with lots of boats and activities packed into tight spaces. There is a tiny house for sale at the end of the creek we're next to. Also a 44' Nauticat on the hard with some repair work being done. We want to get on it but doubt we'll be allowed.

We found our welcome packet with the key to the loaner car. Took a ride to find dinner and the food store. Tomorrow, if we don't leave, we'll try to get to the consignment stores. No energy for reading tonight. Check the weather. Check the weather again. Check the weather from another website. Decide. Here tomorrow...which probably means here for several days due to predicted winds. I can't decide if we're getting smarter or more cautious. Perhaps it doesn't matter as long as we ere on side of safety.

4/20/16           Wednesday                 free dock near, really near High Bridge, outside Portsmouth, VA

Continuing from yesterday.........

 Now this day was a HARD day! Not long but hard. We slept soundly last eve and work up to rocking winds around 17 knots. The wind kicked up to 24 knots as the morning progressed. It took a lot of effort to get our anchor up with me at the helm moving the boat forward over the anchor chain while David ratcheted it up. Out into the channel we decided to continue even though the winds were swifter than expected.  Through the narrow parts of the canal - Coinjock canal (?) was calm, narrowness didn't allow the winds to even be noticed....protected by land close at hand.

We've heard about Coinjock since anyone knew we were planning this journey. Apparently the ribs in this restaurant are the best anywhere. The marina (?) is face docks, so not much of a marina. The restaurant is the draw, I guess. We went right by with only a photo to remember and share....no food. no stories.

BUT, when we got out into Coinjock Bay - holy cow patties!!!!! - reminder of NJ coast. Okay not as bad. Not at all. But it was difficult for about 12 miles. Twelve miles traveling at 5 miles/hour, in really lumpy water, and on a tilt of about 10 degrees - shit! Not fun.  David wanted me to take a picture of the waves splashing on our windshield. "I'm not taking any pictures! I'm busy praying to all my sailing ancestors!" I did take a photo AFTER it had calmed a bit.

splash

So I missed the splash of the wave crashing into the bow and only got the after-splash. The lower left corner is the Laughing Buddha's hands. The twirl of what looks like string is a piece of seaweed that came on board with the wave. I try to rub the Buddha's belly each morning. Helps me remember to keep laughing.  Helps all things...human.

For perspective this is the view of the aft deck.

amazing contrast

The two photos taken within minutes of each other. How can the aft look so inviting and the fore look so threatening? Riddle me that.

As the day progressed the wind died down, we exited the wide open water of various bays and entered the tree stump-ridden canal, the Chesapeake and Albemarle Canal. The good part about this is that we saw so many Osprey building and sitting.

I watched a hawk fly with some branches in his/her beak, really fighting the wind, still. Finally landed on this nest and handed over the goods to be positioned by the mate (him or her).

"Honey, the twigs you need for renovating"

Other hard parts of the day - David did a wonderful job of keeping the boat going forward amid all the waves...which made him really tired...which he sometimes doesn't realize or denies.  And, he managed to not let two tugs w/barges run us off the magenta line. All really good.
I took the helm after Coinjock Bay and the confused sea and wiggled us through the "S" and "C" curves of the canal for a bit. Somewhere along the way we had to deal with bridges that open (or not) for boats....not the 65' highway bridges but the lower (6' to 35') swing or bascule bridges. We were already tired and we kept showing up too soon and having to wait and wait for the "on the hour, half hour" openings. Or we had to push the boat harder than was comfortable. Or we had to wait for the shrimp boat - Blackbeard - to come through the bridge from the other direction. Or..............

We managed.

A joy: coming around a curve we saw a catamaran without a mast. "Is that Bruce? What's his boat's name?" "Don't know. Maybe it's in the log." "Just call." Yes. It was Bruce who we met in NYC at 79th St. Boat Basin and with whom we've lead-frogged much of the way south. Last viewing was Fernandina Beach, FL. Turns out that is as far south as he went. We've tried to hail him on the vhf radio since we stopped for the night but can't reach him. We travel a couple knots faster than he does so he missed some of those bridge openings that we made. Maybe the lock, too. Oh yes. There was a lock in our day. I enjoy the locks.

So tonight we're at a free dock we know from our fall journey south. There is one other larger sail boat here but we'll not attempt to be friendly. Lucky if we're friendly to each other tonight. Okay, we are friendly to each other. Alcohol helps, as does rest in a familiar place. The BIG bridge beside carries noisy traffic. we remember this from the fall as well as experience it now. There are several geese. Maybe this is their courtship dance.

Oh, maybe we'll get the geese dance tomorrow. It will need some editing.

4/19/16 and 4/20/16            Tuesday and Wednesday        

Okay. A very long day Tuesday and a very difficult day Wednesday. Time for an adult beverage!!!

4/19/16       Tuesday        anchored in the south end of the North River

What a beautiful, unexpectedly calm day on the water. We traveled about 80 miles...about 10 hours of motoring but worth it to get this far...making up for the days in port due to high winds. All along the waterway spring is springing. Trees are beginning to leaf out. The marsh grass is brilliant green at the bottom with new growth and golden on top with last years old growth.

in the Pongo/Alligator Rivers Canal

This is the canal that on the way down I complained that I'd not seen a Pongo or a bear or an alligator and minutes later a momma bear and 2 cubs swam across the canal in front of us. No bears, deer, alligators or pongos this time. But a lovely welcoming of spring with the yellow/green baby leaves. Then traveling through the Alligator River (where we anchored and saw amazing Milky Way shooting stars) and the Albemarle Sound with little to NO wind was an unexpected and very welcome wonder. Sigh. Of relief. It is a big, mostly shallow sound and can really pitch a good bunch of waves if the wind comes up. The day was VERY long, but very calm and easy. David and I kept switching off helms person throughout the day so that neither of us had the major burden of boat responsibility. We anchored in flat calm weather/seas among the crab pots but not too, too many. Nothing like the lobster pots in Maine.

oily calm

Last night's accommodations at the mouth of the North River. Notice. No waves. No whitecaps. Just beautiful, calm water with a little land in the background.

Sunset in North River, NC

We all settled into a restful evening. Dinner of mostly leftovers with wine and a little more wine.

I stayed up much later than I'd expected based on how I felt at 6:00 PM, finished a book my Morehead City friend had given me. Took place in Greece so it was fun to be reminded of my and David's trip to Greece.

We also finished our reading aloud book that Sharyl had given us - Playing with Fire - which turned out to be difficult and wonderful.


David and I shared a beer on the foredeck and heard a loud Loon call. So wonderful and clear. I've rarely heard them.

A long sleep until..............


Okay, I decided to split the days, even though I'm writing on the same evening....Wednesday.

4/18/16         Monday              Belhaven, NC



The rather calm waters glimmer in the moonlight. Tiny laps of sparkle as little waves crest and ignite for a moment. The sun setting has already gone through its mauve to blue to black phases. The mauve phase is the longest this evening.

So we said goodbye to our boat neighbors this morning. Time to Go had already left by the time we were up and about. We had a propane challenge - the electricity was no longer getting to the on/off switch so we had to do some investigating. A fuse. Replaced it and then could have coffee and begin the day, seriously. Went to next door/boat to say goodbye to Bright Angel sailors, and to Tricia and Rob on Linda Jean. I'm confident we'll see them this summer in Maine. I really hate the goodbyes, though. We played leapfrog and stayed in radio touch w/two boats all day today. Still, goodbyes are goodbyes. Luckily, we were all leaving about the same time, though going to different destinations today and beyond.

So what makes a day a good day? Yesterday I was preparing and was in a snit. Today I was sad to be leaving friends but totally delighted to be moving on, getting back on the water, progressing, continuing. The environment was about as perfect as could be - beautiful sun, very light winds (!), deep water (!!), relatively straight and not very narrow pathways, good company, healthy cat, AND the seas did lay down. At one point the water was really BIG with just a small line of land in only one direction way far away, and the water was nearly as calm as our pond in Freeport usually is...barely a ripple...except when a power boat went by. Beautiful. The boating was so easy that David and I picked up the murder mystery Sharyl gave us for Christmas and continued where we left, reading aloud while we went along. It is good to be traveling again, in the calm.

laid down seas - quiet pond-like

We'd only expected/planned to get as far as Mayo Seafood today but decided to "make hay while the sun shines", horrible metaphor for sailing, and came all the way to Belhaven, where my cousins, Pat and Kathryn picked us up last fall...and where they had spent their honeymoon many years ago. Didn't contact them this visit. We're on a mission to get back to Maine.

Interesting passing Mayo from the other direction and in broad daylight AND with all this boating experience under our belts. A very different experience that both of us commented on....mostly not nearly as intimidating today as coming upon the rickety - no just unpolished - docks, the fish factory sounds, nearly dark and pretty chilly in October and not knowing what to expect of this industrial "marina." Today, "Wow, I don't remember it being so big."

The pink women's outhouse with sunflowers is still there. I looked for it carefully to make sure. I didn't go into the marina on the way south and we didn't stop this time. However, I know I'd have been less intimidated about walking into the marina/shop/store this time than back in October. I've learned a bit about "the territory" as per The Music Man.

It was a long day on the water and patience was near worn out by the time we anchored, good day and all. Ten hours is a long travel time. We'll hope to do that much again tomorrow. Sixty to seventy statute miles is what we need in order to get through the Albemarle Sound before the wind picks up again on Wednesday. And that will help us much closer to Maine. However, we can't sustain that kind of travel over the long haul of more that 3-4 days. One of us would be likely to jump or be pushed overboard. Just kidding but it would not be very tolerable.

We did manage to get our holding tank pumped out...by us...at a diy pump out station on the city dock. Easy when we finally found the hose in a bin at the other end of the dock from the place you put your token. Pumped out, nevertheless. Anchored and dinner was ready within minutes. I'd planned ahead and our friend, Tricia, had given us some salad fixin's to go w/baked potatoes and chicken.

Our lives are rich. We are blessed.

4/17/26         Sunday             Morehead City, NC


WINDY!!! Still. Not still as in calm but still windy. It lays down at night and until around 9 AM when we all get hopeful that it will stay calm. No such luck........yet. But tomorrow is promising. So, we're in "prepare to leave" mode. Which tends to put me into bit of a snark mood. My triple Capricorn decision making, hyper organized (I think, anyway) self kicks in and David doesn't have a chance at making the right decisions (agreeing w/me) as quickly as I want or as I can. Not that all my decisions are correct but they are decisions. So it was best if I worked by myself for awhile. David went shopping. I continued sanding and oiling on the forward, port rails.

Long view of port rails

Success! A beautiful success.

port rails w/oil

Okay I'm a little proud of this work. Can't wait (?) for an in-port chance to refurbish the starboard side which was my first draft at rail oiling and lacks elegance.

We managed to get re-provisioned, buy a hose so we can wash stuff without emptying gallons of water by dishpan, did a laundry late in the day. Then joined our boating neighbors, all of whom are planning to depart tomorrow, for drinks and dinner at the Ruddy Duck on the wharf in Morehead City. We are a fun crew. Several we'll remain in touch w/if we're lucky.

Rob and Tricia True at our table

 

This photo is from a few nights ago (just got it) when our new, next-boat neighbor, friends from Belgrade, ME, came to our house for dinner. So delighted to know them and looking forward to seeing them in Maine. They are putting their boat up for the summer in Morehead City (Jim Moore's Marina) and will re-join the boat next winter.
Hmmm. I know why we're not doing that this year but.....in the future?

So, we're pretty much ready to leave in the morning. Hoping to make Oriental, if Neuse River is rough, or Mayo is it is just a mile chop.

4/16/16        Saturday          Morehead City, NC


Well we thought the winds had stopped this morning. Nothing exciting in the night and flags gently rippling, sort of, this morning. BUT, by 10 AM it was blowing again. Goodness. When will this blow out. All of us here are ready to be on our way again. A couple of boats left yesterday and another left this morning but the rest of us want to wait until there are no more 6' seas, no matter how far apart the waves are. So.......we wait. Now only 5 boats and we're the only sail boat. Another trawler is planning to leave in the morning. Of course, they may change their mind.

Excitement today was 2 police cars, 2 fire trucks, Tow Boat US, Sea Tow, Coast Guard all arrived off our stern...the stern of the other boats, too. Our neighbor two boats down had called to say a boat anchored behind us was in distress. Then she was worried that it wasn't in distress. No one on board and it had been there since we'd arrived. She thought it was much lower in the water. Finally To Boat US went aboard and opened the hatch and found it was filled w/water. Tow Boat US pumped it out for probably 1/2 hour using 2 big pumps. Apparently the owners are in PA. I think Coast Guard was going to contact them. The woman who called was vindicated and much relieved that she'd not wasted time and money by calling everyone out.

About that same time I'd finished oiling part of the railing I've been working on since September.

Note the rich brown color of the rail. It will fade, of course, but looks beautiful now. I shimmied between the top and bottom rail to get down to the deck to make sure I'd covered the foot rail completely. I shimmied my cell phone right out of my him pocket. And, guess what?
Saw it plop right in the 6+ feet of water, that would be ocean, salt, murky water.

Phone grave

My new-to-me iPhone S5 (or 5S) that I bought about 35 days ago (reconditioned and certified). Heavy sigh. My friend/boat neighbor took me to the AT&T store. I thought I'd insured the iPhone. Not. But the deductible could have been abt $200 anyway. So, I bought an Android for $138. DEAL! The man who helped me was very patient and helpful AND all my contacts and info from my old Android (from 35 days ago before iPhone) could be loaded onto new Android. YES! Not the iPhone stuff but all the photos which is most of what I lost are all on my computer. Sooooo. I'm "phoned" again and totally pleased. I have to get a better tether for my phone, though. I like having it with me all the time but back pocket, or any unsecured pocket, just doesn't make sense, especially onboard.

Back at home/boat I watched my friend, Sybil's, movement choir for the National Water Dance Project, live streamed. Then made snacks to take to the boat party 2 boats down. We were going to all meet at a bar because most of our boats were too small to host all of us (9 people). But Bright Angel which IS large enough invited everyone there. Great. Finally we're getting the hand of cocktail hour which usually turns out to be 2+ hours, not so much for any drinking but for all the stories that get shared. We've even learned there is a "cocktail flag" that, when flown just lets people know that you are accepting guests, bring your own drink/snacks and come visit. Now why didn't one of our home boating friends let us know about this tradition?!?

Hoping that winds subside tomorrow and have mostly diminished by Monday so we can all leave. Hoping, as well, we're not all planning to go to Oriental since that town only has 3 free dock spaces and most of us are spending our pay dock funds here in Morehead.

4/15/16            Friday             Morehead City, NC


TAX DAY unless you live in MA or ME, sort of. Something about Patriots' Day and the weekend? But for most, Tax Day. Got our extension filed and will complete when we return next month.

Winds continue to howl. How can they sustain this energy over so many days? Surely, they'll blow themselves out soon. Enjoying boat projects, cooking and our new friends next boat. Library visit today, some reading. Dinner w/next-boat friends.

Not too much going on while we wait.

4/14/16         Thursday             Morehead City, NC  


One day til TAX DAY!!! Good luck everyone.  We slept late today then went back to bed after coffee. A day around the "house" for the most part. Morning computer work and thinking about Freeport Arts & Cultural ideas and opportunities...and communicating same to the Steering Committee of which we are a part.

The BEST news, perhaps more than anyone want except David and self.........Amelia pooped!! Nice, well formed and sizable poops. Okay. Okay. Too much information. But, this has been a BIG concern for the past week. I'm relieved, and I bet she is, too. She has two more days of antibiotics but already her "normal" behavior of eating and talking and wandering around during the night has returned. And, she came out on the deck today and sunned. Good news all around.

Post computer work this morning into afternoon I did some sanding. I've about a third of the aft deck railing scraped, sanded and ready to be washed and oiled tomorrow. We'll borrow our neighbors' hose, wash the railing and fill the water tanks. Then wait for railings to dry so we can oil them. Maybe take a trip to Beaufort for sight-seeing with boat neighbors.

Today Trisha took David to the chiropractor to see if a pro could realign his chest and neck. David thinks a rib is out. Good results but not a cure at the chiro's. Then we four went to the boat consignment place in Beaufort. didn't buy a thing! Hurrah!! Then back to tasks on the boat and over to Rob & Trisha's for a shared dinner. Total fun. A delightful couple. Trisha's sister is married to John Linscott, jazz musician and creator of Love and Lobsters, the musical Freeport Players produced last summer. Small, small world.

Hoping to hear that cousin, Cheryl's, son, Matt, had successful surgery today to reconnect some nerves in his face. Sending prayers to him and to our friend, Sally, for recovery, health and peace.

Blessed, I am.

4/13/16          Wednesday              Morehead City, NC



Big day today in port in Morehead where we are waiting out the high winds that will likely continue through the weekend. So glad we didn't arrive in Mile Hammock a day later. Stuck there awaiting wind decline would be really trying.

So my big day - I had breakfast on board from around 11 - 12:30; visited with next-boat neighbors who are from Belgrade, ME and are on their first cruise; a little rail scraping, laundry at the other marina, filed my fingernails (for the first time in several weeks), cooked dinner after visiting Belgrade neighbors on their boat.

Lots of conversation with David about next week, next month, next year and tomorrow. Nothing like planning, or at least trying to envision, our futures. As a former colleague said "We're all going to get a future (if we're lucky) to what is your preferred future?" Mine is to not be in Maine in the deep winter, to not be away from Maine home, as long as it is my home, for a whole 8 months which is fine this year but is getting to be a bit long and I miss family/friends/yard/neighbors/garden/neighborhood familiarity and EARTH. One of many thoughts I have is to do some cruising/exploring the Maine coast this summer; 2 week trips or take the boat somewhere and leave it, then come back to it in another week. Sail to Penobscot Bay, for example, park Grace and come home, then return in 2 weeks and continue a sailing adventure further up the Bay. It's an idea. We've never made it to Sullivan, Maine, where friend, David Cadigan, lives. I'd love to visit him by sea. Then there IS Nova Scotia where our new friends live. Sigh. time will reveal all.

Chilly in Morehead tonight and the wind whistles and singing through the rigging. Kitty is stirring after her day of mostly sleeping. She did wander out onto the deck a couple of times this afternoon. She seems to be feeling better. A relief.

4/12/16        Tuesday              Morehead City, NC


Another day on the waterways. We left Mile Hammock early this morning with all our neighbors, about 7 boats finally arrived by last evening. Away we went to get the next bridge that opened only on the hour and half hour. Dun-da, dun-da, dun-da, dun-da - hear the theme to "Jaws" - boats closing in on the swing bridge. Oops. swing bridge is under repair. So we all slowed down, circling, waiting, anchoring. Then from the swing bridge, "Boats traveling north we're going do an experimental opening so you can go through." "David (who was just employing the anchor), we're going!" "Now?!?" from David. yep, now.

One oddity on the way up-stream:

Man pushing boat

We couldn't quite figure out what was going on here. Interesting. There was skinny water and a couple of shoaling alerts on our way when the ICW goes between Emerald Isle and the NC mainland but otherwise pretty uneventful.  We're on a dock at Morehead City Docks.

A great and lovely visit and dinner with Suzanne and Lee. They took us to the food store and liquor store (what is a sailor without rum, I ask us all?) then treated us to dinner at The Parrot, a lovely restaurant with delicious food. Good company. Good food. Good conversation. We came back to Grace for dessert of strawberries and yogurt.  Suzanne brought us a NYTimes for our reading pleasure. They left for the drive home and we went to bed.

Suzanne & Lee, our dinner companions